My Mom was forever telling me off as a child for putting my hands in the pockets of my jacket or my jeans. Usually with the slightly ironic comment of, “pockets are for putting things in!”
Obviously, she meant keys, a tissue, or some lip balm. But not hands.
Because hands aren’t ‘things’ and walking about with them in your pocket, well, that was just rude.
I’m not sure if she ever picked up on the duplicity of her statement. But one thing’s for sure, putting stuff, including my hands, in my pockets is a habit I still have.
Although, I do agree with her on one point. Running with your hands in your pockets is a bad idea. It rarely ends well for your nose… don’t ask how I know that.
I’m totally lost without pockets. Whether it’s for storing my phone, loose change, or even my hands, there’s just something comforting about having a useful receptacle close by to store those daily essentials. In a way that a shoulder bag or handbag just can’t compare.
Shoulder bags can be so annoying. The strap on mine is constantly falling off my shoulder. It drives me nuts. My pockets on the other hand… stay put.
Then there is the fashion etiquette question. Should your bag match your shoes or your outfit? It’s just not something you have to worry about with pockets.
My love of the humble pocket took me down a rabbit hole of discovery recently. I was looking for an answer to the age old question, “why do men have pockets but not women?”
It turns out, that once upon a time, women did in fact have pockets. Lots of them!
Only not the type we are used to today.
The History of Pockets
Pockets were originally made to be tied around the waist and would have been larger than today’s in-seam pockets and more bag shaped.
Originally, both men and women would have worn pockets hidden underneath their clothing. Before the 17th Century, clothing would have been baggy and loose-fitting, giving ample room for a pocket or two between the layers.
These pockets would have been made from any durable material such as cotton, linen and even leather. Unlike modern day pockets – they were huge! Some could span the length of a body from waist to mid thigh!
They could hold all sorts of items from coins, needles, a knitting project, tools, knives, important documents, and even precious keepsakes. Like a lock of a loved one’s hair.
Picture: The Met Museum OA Public Domain https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/121603
In fact, it is because of these pockets that things like pocket guides became popular. Publishers would print little books designed to be carried on journeys. Full of useful information like plant identification or train times, they would have been the historical traveler’s equivalent of today’s smart phone.
Although pocket guides were still popular when I was a child… I don’t think I could have fit one in the pockets I had back then.
I was lucky to get a few coins and a tissue in them. They were so tiny. Even today, women’s pockets are still incredibly… useless. They are just too small!
Women and the Subversive Pocket
The reason the size of women’s pockets are so utterly frustrating today is probably down to two important factors from the past.
Fashion and historical attitudes towards a woman’s place in society.
Around the 17th Century clothing for men and women began to change. Instead of having tied on pockets, tailors started adding pockets to menswear, either as patch pockets, welt pockets, or in-seam pockets. Men’s attire had become less baggy, more form fitting, so hiding tie on pockets had become more difficult.
Women’s clothing, particularly skirts remained voluminous meaning tie on pockets could still be worn easily. So there was no need to change pocket type.
There could also be another reason why women continued to use the traditional style of undergarment pocket… why change the habit of a lifetime? It worked so why fix it?
Tie on pockets were incredibly effective at carrying whatever a woman needed with her on a day to day basis. She could even carry items for her partner. Or things she needed as part of her employment. Being close to the body meant that the pocket was hidden away. Concealed from prying eyes, the most sentimental of items could be kept safe and secure.
Besides, it’s useful to have a secret pocket that no one can see… just think about the items you could hide away. Some silver from an employer’s sideboard, or a wallet freshly picked from a stranger’s trouser pocket.
A woman’s pocket became synonymous with the darker side of life. Particularly for women in domestic service with access to their employer’s valuables. Therein lies the reason behind the assumption that women were subversive or up to no good if they had a hidden pocket.
Then there is the slightly ugly reality of women’s lives back in the past. They were not in control of their own destiny. As possessions of their fathers or husbands, they were seen to be dependent on the menfolk in their lives for their every need. Financial, travel, security, and health.
What better way to keep women in check than by reducing the size of pockets – so nothing fits in them. Not even the bus fare home.
That could just be me being cynical but… it’s a thought.
Modern Women’s Clothing and the Lack of Pockets
Although pockets are no longer thought of as being subversive, women are still getting short-changed when it comes to the size and presence of these essential carry-alls that men take for granted.
The reason for the lack of pockets is still, in part, due to fashion. Or rather the cost of making fashionable garments.
You see, women’s clothing changes with the seasons. Quite literally.
Every season your local store changes the clothing range to make room for the next big thing in fashion. It could be new tops, skirts, dresses, and even jeans. So much so that, in order to keep within budget, fashion manufacturers cut corners.
Or should that be cut pockets?
Because that’s what they do. To save on the cost of fabric, they leave out the pockets. No pockets means less material needed to make the garment. It’s simple economics.
Another reason for the lack of decent pockets, is the ability to look attractive in your clothing. We’re basically back to fashion here.
Pockets cause bulk in a garment and stop it laying flat against the body. Especially in-seam pockets. They can make the sides of a garment gape. Even when they are empty. If you put something in the pocket – you’ve got a Grand Canyon size cavern at the side of your body.
As women’s clothing tends to be closer fitting than most menswear, that gape… well… it stands out more and it’s not a good look.
Patch pockets are just as bad. I don’t know why, but they always seem to put the patch pocket in places … that they draw the eye to … where most women don’t want the eye drawn to!
It’s hard enough getting guys to look at our faces as it is. Without a bulging pocket distracting their attention.
Of course, it’s not all good news for men. Pockets, even in men’s clothing, can wear out. Particularly under the weight of keys and coins.
I think I’m going to take inspiration from an 18th Century lady… and use the modern equivalent to a tie on pocket… the bum bag!
Best Books On the History of Pockets
My deep delve into the world of pockets led me to these two books. I’m going to share them with you because I think both were informative, educational, and fascinating to read.
Pockets: An Intimate History of How We Keep Things Close
by Hannah Carlson
A fun and riveting read on the origin of pockets, their uses, and how they have influenced fashion through the ages. This book covers pockets for both men and women and looks at the ways in which pockets became synonymous with power and privilege.
It also backs up my Mom’s impression of pockets being rude. As the author Carlson investigates, “how it is that putting your hands in your pockets can be seen as a sign of laziness, arrogance, confidence, or perversion”.
This book is a must-read for anyone interested in the history of dress and fashion. Written in a non-biased way, it covers the differences between clothing for men and women. It also covers the controversial nature of pockets. As well as revealing why some believed that women’s pockets in particular were subversive.
The Pocket: A Hidden History of Women’s Lives 1660 – 1900
By Barbara Burman & Ariane Fennetaux
The focus of this book is on women’s pockets and how they were used to organize, not just the lives of the women, but also their families.
The research that has gone into this book is nothing short of amazing. Using art, literature, museums, and even records at The Old Bailey, the authors Burman and Fennetaux have pieced together an amazing historical account of pockets and their importance in women’s lives.
They demonstrate how a pocket could be used in similar ways across the broad spectrum of social standing. Women from all walks of life relied on their pockets for organizing their lives and the safe keeping of their most treasured possessions.
Final Thoughts
Pockets: A Hidden History of Women’s Lives 1660 -1900, is the one that I enjoyed the most. Totally relatable and fascinating to read, it resonated with me in ways the other book didn’t. I think it was because this one was written from a more personal angle.
There are plenty of references to actual women through the time period who either lost pockets or who left pockets to loved ones in their wills. Showing how important a little item like a pocket is to people’s lives. Even today!
One thing that made me smile was the reference to shanks’s pony. Although I know what it refers to, this was the first time I had seen that phrase in print. Then there was the reference to “pease and beans”.
Pease was how my Dad used to spell Peas… only he pronounced it “pays”. I was forever telling him he was wrong… Turns out… he was right!
If you have been inspired to find out more about pockets, I found this article on how to make your own 17th Century tie on pockets.
This could make a great first sewing project! Let me know in the comments if you give it a try!
Make Your Own Pockets
https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/make-your-own-pockets
This article from the Maryland Center For History and Culture is also worth a read!
Whichever link you follow in this post, I hope you find your way back here for the next one.
In the meantime, whatever you’re sewing, whatever you’re sewing it with, embrace your creativity and have fun!
Thanks for reading! Bye for now
Olly
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